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Water Pump Removal and Replacement Despite being easily accessible at the front of the engine I must confess that this is quite a nightmare of a job. Mainly because some of the bolts are tricky to get off and the viscous fan is tricky to remove. In fact you must not start this job without first getting hold of a viscous fan spanner. It is a special 32mm thin spanner with a bend in the shaft to allow you to get it on the fan nut. I purchased one of these at the recent 'Spares and projects' day held by the Capri Club. I know that you can buy them at large Halfords and you could also get something similar from a cycle shop that will do the job. Make sure that you purchase a water pump of the correct type with the viscous fan fitting. They cost around £15 and are readily available. You will also need something to grip the pump with while you tackle the job. A Black and Decker work bench is perfect. Make sure you have some gasket sealant handy as well. Assuming you have the spanner and the other bits ready off we go: To remove the water pump you
will first need to drain the cooling water by pulling off the hose at the bottom
of the radiator. Catch the fluid in a clean bucket and if it is less than
a year old you should keep it and reuse it. Otherwise treat yourself to
some new antifreeze. Next job is to remove the fan belt by slackening off ALL the bolts that fix the alternator in place. The belt should just lift off and thread itself past the vanes of the fan. Next job is to remove the
timing belt cover. Undo the three bolts and their washers from the cover
and lift it carefully outwards and upwards from the car. Check the
condition of the belt whilst the cover is off! It is unlikely that the pump will fall off as you undo the bolts but I would support it with your hand as you complete the job. Make sure you note which bolt goes where - they are so different it would be hard to mix them up. With all three bolts undone you can gently rock the pump and it should pull away from the gasket. Remove the pump and place on the bench. You will have some water pour out of the block but it will settle down after a few seconds. It is important that you make sure all the old gasket is removed. The best way to do this is using an old chisel and scrape hard. The old gasket will look almost metallic and it can be easy to think that it has all been removed! Clean up the metal surface with some wire wool. The fan and pulley need to be
transferred from the old pump to the new one and this is where the fun
starts. You will need to clamp the pulley in a work bench (must be wood
otherwise you will damage the pulley). Tighten the workbench as tight as
you can. There is not much space to get the fan spanner in but it is
possible. Rotate the fan and use the gaps to make life easier for you
(does anyone know why the fan blade pattern is like it is?) Next job is to undo the four bolts that hold the pulley on and remove the pulley. The bottom bolt will now become free as well. Transfer the pulley over to the new pump housing but REMEMBER TO LOCATE THE BOTTOM BOLT FIRST. If you forget and refit the fan you will have a nasty surprise when you try and fit it on the car! Bolt the pulley onto the new pump and then refit the viscous fan noting that you have to turn the spanner anti-clockwise to tighten it. There is no need to go crazy tightening this nut! You are ready to refit the pump to the car. Firstly smear a thin layer of blue gasket sealant on the bottom surface of the pump and press the paper gasket on. Next apply more sealant to the top surface of the gasket. Allow the sealant to dry for a couple of minutes. While you are doing this wipe down the mating surface on the engine block taking care to make sure there is no water present. To fit the pump seems to require three pairs of hands. Press her up against the engine block and try to get all three bolts started Don't worry if it gets all messy - the sealant will spread itself about when the pump is tightened down. It will take twenty minutes or so to get all three bolts in and tightened. Keep spinning the fan to make sure the pump is not catching anywhere. It is not practical to use a torque wrench so just keep tightening the bolts in sequence until they are nice and tight. Best way to judge is to tighten with your hand half way down the spanner. Once if feels like it is going to need a big heave to tighten further than that is the time to stop. It is worth checking the tightness again after ten minutes. With the new pump in place you can replace the fan belt and tighten so it gives 15mm deflection in the mid point. Try levering the alternator outwards with a long piece of wood. Refit the timing belt cover taking care not to catch on the belt. The radiator should then be refitted and the hoses re-attached. With everything in place you can replace the coolant water by pouring it into the top radiator. This job is made much easier if you undo and detach the top hose on the automatic choke to allow the air to escape. Start the car and watch out for any leaks around the pump. You may need to tighten the bolts a bit more bit it is unlikely that you will have any problems. The water in the radiator will drop as the engine heats up so keep topping her up until the radiator remains full and the expansion tank is at the correct level. Keep an eye on the engine temperature during this stage as it has been known for there to be a large air-lock in the system causing an overheat! Hopefully that is the one and only time you will need to do that job! |
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